Bean variety selected for evaluation is Yirgacheffe, constant for
all roast trials. A Salter
digital balance was used to weigh beans out for each roast batch.
Focus of the evaluation is the new HIR model, with the concept of
this evaluation being to highlight strengths and weaknesses by direct
comparison to the HT and HWP models.
Grinding/brewing equipment used consists of:
1) Mazzer
Mini grinder
2) Rancilio Silvia
(unmodified)
3) Upgraded La
Marzocca portafilter with triple basket
4) Reg Barber
tamper
Evaluation Plan
A. All roasts were conducted morning of 6/19, 24 hours prior to
the brewing trials. Roasting done on a covered patio, ambient temperature
= 90F. For HWP, run two 85 gram batches: roast level 6.5 + roast
level 7 (this range has proven to be suitable for delivering roasts
in the full city + or slightly beyond). For i-Roast, run two 130
gram batches: one with the “pre-2” pre-programmed roast
profile, the second with a manual profile.
B. Video of i-Roast process:
1) Beginning
of roast cycle (1.4mb)
2) Toward end
of roast cycle (1.3mb)
C. Photos
of the roast coffee for the HWP and HIR trials.
D. Taste testing was conducted over the 6/20 to 6/25 time period.
In all cases, the pulls were only considered valid if 2-2.5 oz volume
was generated in 20-25 seconds. Portafilter
and shower screen were thoroughly cleaned using Urnex Cleancaf.
Impressions and Observations for Roaster Comparison
a) Crema production was slightly less for the HWP trials compared
to either the HIR or HT.
b) For HT roasts, the Mazzer grinder had to be adjusted to a more
coarse setting. Grind setting which works well for either HIR or
HWP chokes Silvia when used for HT.
c) Surprisingly, the taste differences were rather subtle which
could be partly attributable to the relatively dark roasts used
for all trials. Or maybe it just means that all three of these roasters
do a respectably good job. All shots were quite good, certainly
better than what one gets in most commercial coffee shops here in
the USA.
d) My subjective ranking of the shot quality, scale of 1-10, is
HWP=8, HIR=8.5, HT=9…where 10 would represent the mythical
“God shot.” The HT gets the nod for having slightly
better depth of flavor and more complexity compared to the air roasters.
But to my palate, the difference is very small indeed.
e) Bottom line: all 3 of these roasters do a fantastic job of delivery
top quality fresh roasted beans. From a practical perspective, the
HIR is awfully good for less than $200. The HT can deliver a somewhat
larger roast batch size and delivers just slightly more depth of
flavor, perhaps due to the drum roast configuration. But at $600,
is it 3x as good as the HIR? And then there is the ability to set
up custom roast profiles, which is a feature that only the HIR possesses.
It is entirely possible that after several months of fiddling with
the roast profiles, I may meet or exceed the roast quality of the
HT.
a) Conclusion: HIR trumps all competition as best value for the
serious home roasters.
Addendum: Decaf roasting in the HIR
Following the evaluation effort outlined above, I ran a decaf roast
batch (130 grams batch size, “pre 2” roast profile).
Much to my dismay, the roast seemed to stall at first crack and
never developed properly beyond this point…even though I extended
the roast time as much as the machine permitted (15 min max total
roast time is the limit). I found this curious since the HWP machine
always roasts decaf properly using a roast setting ½ to 1
level lower than what works for regular beans. So why would the
HIR under-roast decaf at a roast level which works well for regular?
Puzzling indeed.
Three observations helped me understand what the mechanism is behind
the slow decaf roasting:
1) Suggested roast profiles have the temp set to maximum (485F)
for the first roast phase. This made no sense to me, since in the
early part of the roasting the intent is to gradually bring the
temperature up to a point just below first crack initiation…to
allow moisture to smoothly dissipate.
2) The HIR is rated for 150 grams batch size, but my first trial
with regular beans at this condition did not roast uniformly. I
noticed that the bean movement slowed down dramatically in the final
few minutes of the roast process, and subsequently found the chaff
collector screen to be 100% plugged.
3) While monitoring the HIR temperature readout, I noticed that
the actual temperature does not exceed 320F during the first roast
phase regardless of how high the roast profile was set.
So what’s happening? Simple…for regular coffee (not
decaf), once the chaff starts to separate during roast phase #2,
the chaff collector starts to clog. This in turn chokes down the
airflow in the roast pot, which allows the temperature of the air
to increase (max KW rating of the heating element is being applied
to a lower air volume). This is why the roaster seems to be limited
to 320F during the early roast phase for regular, and why it can’t
seem to get higher than this at any time for a decaf roast--since
the chaff collector never clogs for decaf, the airflow stays high
which prevents the air temp from going higher than ~ 320F.
One tip is to roast decaf after a regular batch—not cleaning
the chaff collector between batches. This should work but may not
be very repeatable—roast results will depend on to what extent
the chaff collector is clogged from the previous roast batch. In
fact, I now have some concern over repeatability of regular coffee
bean roasting…will roast batch-to-batch consistency be a strong
function of chaff volume?
My concept to make the HIR work better for decaf is to simulate
the chaff collector clogging phenomenon using an aluminum
foil modification. NOTE: this modification is done solely at
the discretion and risk of the user, please be aware that this modification
is neither sanctioned nor condoned by Hearthware and could void
your warranty.
Many thanks to Professor Ted
Adlam for creating this evaluation
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